Box kite designs

Box kite designs DEFAULT

Box Kite Plans

The MBK Multi-Dowel Box kite in flight.MBK Multi-Dowel Box

These plans assume that you have the knowledge to do a neat job, use the right knots and keep the weight down!



 

The BIG MBK E-book Bundle!

On this site, there's more kite-making info than you can poke a stick at :-)

Want to know the most convenient way of using it all?

The Big MBK E-book Bundle is a collection of downloads — printable PDF files which provide step-by-step instructions for many kites large and small.

Every kite in every MBK series.

 


Dowel Box Kite Plans

Box Kite plans (a) - dowel spars.
Box Kite plans (b) - dowel spars.


Tips And Hints

  1. For the dimensions in the plan, use 5 mm (3/16 in.) diameter hardwood dowel for the spars and cross-pieces. For added strength in flight, you can use 6mm dowel for the long cross-pieces. Any light plastic sheet will do for the sail.
  2. Use a single long strip of clear sticky tape along each long edge of both pieces of sail plastic. Besides to reinforcing the edge, this also attaches the spars to the plastic.
  3. Close the box using clear sticky tape along the short edges of the plastic. Also fold a short length of tape around the leading edge and trailing edge of both joins, to reinforce.
  4. Reinforce the sail at each tip of each main spar, with small squares of packing tape. These caps, folded onto both sides of the sail, will prevent the spars from slipping through the edging tape.
  5. Cut off two short and two longer dowel cross-pieces, using wood glue and spare dowel to make the tips as shown above.
  6. Tie a length of shoelace to the middle of both short cross-pieces. Each pair of cross-pieces can then be secured together at the crossing point, for extra strength and stiffness during flight.
  7. Insert and secure the cross-pieces as indicated on the plan. You can glue them in place if you want. Otherwise, glue small dowel lugs onto the main spars so the cross-pieces cannot slip along the dowel. Bend each cross-piece a little to remove it when packing away the kite.
  8. Try a bridle line about 1.5 DL (180 cm, 72 in.) in length.
  9. With the upper bridle leg attached and angled as shown, the kite should be trimmed nicely. Feel free to experiment with sliding the flying line attachment point fore and aft a little from this position. Secure both bridle attachment knots with a small dob of glue, so they don't slide along the dowel.
  10. This design is lightly built for light to moderate winds only! It's a fantastic flier in those conditions, and will respond to thermals.
  11. No tail should be necessary.

The MBK Dowel Box kite in flight:


These box kite plans will soon have you flying this kitee!Not all box kites are made for strong wind

 


2-Skewer Box Kite Plans

Box Kite plans - 2-skewer spars


Tips And Hints

  1. Use a single strip of clear sticky tape over the long edges of both pieces of sail plastic. This will reinforce the edge and at the same time attach the skewers to the plastic. Each main spar is two skewers with points removed, butted end to end and reinforced with two short lengths of skewer glued on.
  2. Close the box using clear sticky tape along the shorter sail plastic edges. Also fold a short length of tape around each end of both joins, to reinforce.
  3. Reinforce the sail at each tip of each main spar, with small squares of insulation tape. These caps, folded onto both sides of the sail, will prevent the spars from slipping through the edging tape.
  4. Insert and secure the two vertical cross-pieces, one near the upper cell and one near the lower cell, both butted onto the same two spars. Hold in place with insulation or packing tape squares folded over the main spar and onto the cross-pieces.
  5. Cut the other two cross-pieces slightly oversize, then trim down to fit, before securing them onto the other two spars in the same way.
  6. Try a bridle line about 3.0 SL (87 cm, 35 in.) in length.
  7. Poke a hole through the plastic for the upper bridle attachment, then add a short strip of clear sticky tape just forward of the hole, as reinforcement. Secure the lower bridle attachment knot with a small dob of glue.
  8. This design just loves moderate to fresh wind, for which no tail should be necessary.
  9. Due to its small size, it is convenient to attach the cross-pieces permanently to the spars with glue. You can use paper gussets or very short lengths of skewer along with the gluing to achieve more strength in the joins.

Here's the MBK 2-Skewer Box kite in flight, on an almost overcast day:

The 2-Skewer Box kite in flightThis little box kite will take a lot of punishment

 


1-Skewer Box Kite Plans

Box Kite plans - 1-skewer spars


Tips And Hints

  1. Use a single strip of clear sticky tape along the longer edges of both pieces of sail plastic. This will reinforce the edge and at the same time attach the skewers to the plastic.
  2. Close the box using clear sticky tape along the shorter sail plastic edges. Also fold a short length of tape around each end of both joins, to reinforce.
  3. Reinforce the sail at each tip of each main spar, with small squares of insulation tape. These caps, folded onto both sides of the sail, will prevent the spars from slipping through the edging tape.
  4. Insert and secure the vertical cross-piece.
  5. Cut the horizontal cross-piece slightly oversize, then trim down to fit, before securing it to the two side spars. Apply a little glue where it crosses the vertical cross-piece.
  6. Tie some flying line between the two side-spars, attached where indicated on the plan (side view). Use a couple of Half-Hitches to hold a little tension in the line, before securing the knot with glue. This is an unusual box kite design, but it saves weight!
  7. Poke a hole for the bridle attachment, then add a short strip of clear sticky tape just forward of the hole to protect the plastic.
  8. Try a tail about 6.0 SL (175 cm, 70 in.) long, looped around and attached at both ends to the lower cell where indicated. Experiment with reducing the amount of tail later.
  9. This little kite flies best in moderate winds.

Here's the MBK 1-Skewer Box kite in flight:

The 1-Skewer Box kite in flight.Needs a bit of tail but fun to fly in moderate winds

 


Out in the Field

Box kite stories of my real-life flying experiences are worth checking out!

Illustrated with photos and videos, of course.


Hope you've had fun using these box kite plans. Did it fly well? Great!

 


 


As mentioned earlier, there's more kite making on this site than you can poke a stick at :-)

Want to know the most convenient way of using it all?

The Big MBK E-book Bundle is a collection of downloads — printable PDF files which provide step-by-step instructions for many kites large and small.

Every kite in every MBK series.


Sours: https://www.my-best-kite.com/box-kite-plans.html

Box kites are known for their high lift. In fact, most of the altitude records for kite flying are held by large box kites. You can make this box kite with easy-to-find materials from your hardware or craft store. Lightweight materials will help it soar, even in a mild breeze.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A BOX KITE

  • Pocketknife
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Fine-toothed saw
  • 4 wooden dowels 1⁄4” x 36”
  • 4 wooden dowels 1⁄4” x 17”
  • 4 straws that can slide over 1⁄4” dowels
  • Household string
  • Carpenter’s glue
  • Duct or masking tape
  • Lightweight construction paper (You can also use 2 mil painter’s plastic cloth, newspapers, wrapping paper or plastic trash bags.) You will need two sheets of material 11” x 64”.
  • Kite string

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A BOX KITE

1. Cut the 1⁄4” dowels to length. Use your pocketknife to carve a notch in each end of the 17” dowels. Notches at opposite ends of each dowel must be at the same angle to fit into the dowels they will cross.

2. Mark each 17” dowel halfway along its length at 8 1⁄2”. Turn notches in correct direction and tie two tightly together at the halfway point with household string. Soak the string with glue. After the glue dries, wrap the joints tightly with masking or duct tape. Make two of these crosspieces, which will hold the frame together.

3. Cut eight lengths of straw 4” long. Cut and fold each straw as shown. Slide the straws onto each 36” dowel. Use tape to hold the straws in position, 6” from the end of each dowel. Make sure both straws on each dowel are pointing in the same direction. Slide the crosspieces into the straws. Use tape to hold the whole thing together while you tie the joints tightly together with string, soak with glue and tape as in Step 2. This process will make a very sturdy frame for your kite. As an option, you can wrap a string around each end of the frame to add strength.

4. Tape and tightly wrap the 11” x 64” sheet material around the frame. Trim to length and tape in place.

5. Apply tape around the sheets on all edges.

6. Attach the kite string as shown, and you’re ready to fly.

PHOTOS OF COMPLETED PROJECT

Check out these photos of the completed project sent to us by Boys’ Life readers. If you have a photos of a BL Workshop project, please use the form below to send them to us.

I put my skills of woodworking to a craft of kite making to furniture making to sculpt in wood.

I put my skills of woodworking to a craft of kite making to furniture making to sculpt in wood.

dougy
Geovoni

Check This Out!

Important Note: Please only upload photos of your project. Because of privacy rules, we can't post any photos that show people's faces. Always ask for your parent's permission before uploading anything to a website.
Sours: https://scoutlife.org/hobbies-projects/projects/53339/build-and-fly-a-box-kite/
  1. Aaron rodgers engaged
  2. Hamilton dpw
  3. Easton cyclone

Introduction: The Box Kite

How to make a simple box kite with a few sticks, some string, and a little bit of fabric. This one is 3 feet tall and about 12 inches wide (without wings).

Step 1: Materials

For the kite itself you'll need:

8 dowels - commonly 36 inches long, 1/4 inch is fine for all parts, however I used 1/4 inch for the spreaders and 5/16 inch for the main body of the kite. note - you'll need one extra 1/4 inch if you put wings on your kite.

Twine or string - I happened to have some extra hemp twine around that worked very well but cotton or polyester will work equally well, monofiliment and nylon are to be avoided within the structure of the kite.

2 yards of light fabric - I used some very light rip-stop nylon, but muslin would also work.

You'll aslo need:

scissors, a knife, ruler, needle and thread, and a spool of heavy fishing line.

Step 2: A Knoting Refreasher Before Begining Construction

You'll only need to know 4 knots for the construction and operation of this kite. These can be quite easy to tie wrong, practice them before applying them to the kite.

the constrictor - this is what you'll be binding the frame of the kite together with. try tying this over your finger or a single stick, if done correctly when you remove your finger and pull on the ends the string will pull straight, leaving no knot.

the marlinspike hitch - the constrictor knots need to be pulled very tight and one of the best ways to do that is to tie the loose ends to sticks so you don't have to kill your hands trying to pull directly on the string. like the constrictor this won't leave a knot if the stick is removed.

the artillery loop - this will be used on the bridle, (I'll explain later) it's easy to tie and untie so if you need to change it's position it's quick and easy.

the bowline - this will be the best knot to connect the tow-string (the heavy fishing line) to the bridle. and also the ends of the bridle to the kite.

Step 3: Start Construction

It's probablly best to tie the frame up first so you can double check the placement of the sticks and measurements of the fabric.

Start by cutting four 1/4 inch sticks in half. An easy way to do this without a saw is to mark where it's to be cut,score it deeply with a knife, then hold the stick with your thumbs close to the cut and slowly rotate your wrists. the ends of the stick should make little circles while the wood breakes where you scored it with the knife.

Now you've got eight small sticks and four long ones. Measure 1/2 an inch from the ends of each long stick and make a mark for the spreaders, also measure 11 and 1/2 inches from each and make another mark for the spreaders. Mark 1/2 an inch from each end on the spreaders themselves.

Tie on the top and bottom spreaders on one set of sticks first, then the other and then slide them together and tie the spreaders together at their centers. Finally tie on the inside spreaders. If you're going to put wings on your box kite, simply substitute a full dowel for one of the inside spreaders.

Once you have your frame set up with the spreaders tied together at their centers and at 90degrees to each other, measure around the outside of the frame, it should be approximately 11 and 1/2 inches between the main frames. Check this measurement yourself as it may vary. Then simply multiply that measurement times 4 and cut out your fabric by that length and 11 inches wide, of course leaving room for a 1/4 inch hem on all sides and 1/2 an inch for the seam where the ends come together. To attach the fabric so as to be easily removed I sewed on strips of cloth at each point that the fabric came in contact with a joint in the frame.

The wings of the kite will be 35 inches (assuming dowles are 36 inches) along the base, and the points 9 inches from the base (double check this when you mock up the frame). Measure from the point the top spreaders meet the frame to the center of the spreader that supports the wings. On the fabric draw a line 35 inches long, from one end mark the distance just measured. then measure 9 inches out from that mark, simply connect this point to the ends of the first line and you have a triangle. Remember to leave room for a hem on all sides. Sew a pocket in the outer point of the wings to accomidate the ends of the spreader. Also sew on strips of cloth at the ends and where the base of the triangle meets the spreader to attach the wings to the frame.

Step 4: Put It All Together

Before you start final assembly of the kite you may want to notch the sticks where the spreaders meet the body to ensure the frame will stay rigid. Simply mark all the joints while you have the frame together, then take it apart and use a good knife or small chisel to make all the notches.

Then begin assembling the frame as you did the first time, but before you tie the top and bottom spreaders together slip the fabric over the frame. then adjust the frame so all the corners line up with the ties on the fabric. Then lash on the inside spreaders and tie the fabric firmly to the frame. The wings are simply tied to the top and bottom corners and the pocket slipped over the ends of their spreaders - remember to sand down the edges of these or they may wear through the pockets.

The only thing left to do is attach the bridle to the kite. Take a peice of heavy twine or heavy fishing line and cut a length that will stand out from the kite about 18 inches, attach the ends to the corners of the frame with a bowline (see step two), then tie an artillery loop 10 or eleven inches down from the top.

Step 5: Go Fly Your Kite

This kite should fly quite well in winds from around 8 to 20 miles per hour, at least that has been my experience. Flying the kite in winds exceeding 25 mph puts the structural integredy of the kite at risk and may cause sudden violent groundings - also my experience.

To prepare for flight just use a bowline to connect your line to the loop in the bridle. for the line I used some heavy fishing line.

If the kite has trouble rising or tends to fly more vertical than horizontal try moving the loop in the bridle closer to the top of the kite, but it's suggested that you move in only about an inch at a time.
Also if the kite seems unstable and darts around a lot try making a longer bridle.

for more information on kites and other ideas for construction check out this site: http://www.inquiry.net/outdoor/spring/kites/25kites.htm

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Sours: https://www.instructables.com/The-Box-Kite/
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